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mu shu restaurant + bar
By Franz Scheurer

mu shu restaurant + bar at Bondi Beach surely must be Sydney's most 'out there' space. Reds and blacks dominate but are unable to overshadow the incredibly open kitchen, with its Peking ducks hanging from the wall, the sparkling, well-stocked bar or the sinfully comfortable daybeds.

Although incredibly modern this is a very comfortable place with everything from noise levels to temperature controlled just right. The Asian inspired look is ably complemented by the Asian food creations of Jo Ward (ex Cheong Liew's The Grange in Adelaide). Make sure you check out the water feature in the men's loos!

Start with an innovative cocktail on one of the daybeds and indulge in some bar snacks, like the succulent 'pork and foie gras siu mai with honey soy dipping sauce', or the 'giant natural oysters with rice vinegar, smoked chilli, sesame seeds and cucumber' and use the time to leisurely peruse the menu and wine list.

Then move to one of the tables and let the banquet begin.
mu shu's restaurant + bar
food is best shared but you do have the choice of having the food arriving all at once or staggered. We chose the staggered method simply because we would have run out of space on our table. (Yes, we were a touch greedy!)

As soon as we sat down a square lacquer-ware tray arrived with home made 'Iavosh' sticks and three condiments, XO sauce, sweet potato dip and prickly ash. What a great 'amuse gueule"

We ordered the 'our own roast duck with cucumber, spring onions, pancakes and dipping sauce', the 'salt & pepper squid, cucumber, yam bean, herbs and sesame tamarind dressing', the 'red braised pork hock with a marbled tea egg', the 'sung choi bao of tofu, water chestnuts, cloud-ear mushrooms and cellophane noodles' and last but not least the 'wood grilled river king prawns with barbecued pork and rice noodle rolls, tomatoes, four herbs and macadamias'. The duck was absolutely fantastic, as was the Hoi Sin sauce served with it. The pancakes although home made, a little on the dry side. The salt and pepper squid was perfectly cooked, crunchy on the outside, tender on the inside but the spices were understated. We ordered another bowl of prickly ash, using it liberally, and that did the trick. The 'sung choi bao' was an absolute taste and texture sensation but impossible to eat with your hands as is customary and the king prawns absolutely fresh, just glassy, a perfect complement to the texturally fabulous rice noodle rolls.

Table and glassware are excellent and serving ware exquisite, helping the excellent presentation of the food. Service is friendly, knowledgeable and very professional.

Whoever put the wine list together must be congratulated. Not only is it one of the most appropriate wine lists I've seen, but it also offers some of the best wines by the glass. Wine prices are cheap, by Sydney standards, and value for money for everything else is excellent.

Being at mu shu restaurant + bar is a thoroughly enjoyable experience. I will recommend it to all my friends and everyone else who is prepared to listen. As Jo Ward states on the menu: "Eating should be fun and a little adventurous. There are no substitutes for quality, freshness and real flavours. Take the time to graze, enjoy the experience!"

I'll drink to that. 'Sik Fan" indeed!

Score: 8/10

For more information or bookings:
mu shu restaurant + bar
108 Campbell Parade
Bondi Beach NSW 2026
Tel.: 02 9130 5400


 

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